All you need to know about Sauna and how to build it

 

What  it sauna?

Sauna is a small room that is heated to temperatures between 150°F and 195°F (65°C to 90°C). It’s a tradition historically linked to Finland, where pits dug in the sides of slopes were heated with fireplaces, hot stones, and steam. Luckily, it’s possible to build one of these cozy relaxation rooms at home without digging a hole in the side of a hill. The tension-easing relief a sauna offers will give you a new life. 

Anyone who builds or buys a sauna thinks firstly of its design. Not without reason: You want to feel comfortable, to relax and unwind, but just as important as the furnishing of the sauna is for the well-being that arises, so is the associated sauna. A modern, electric sauna provides a pleasant temperature in the sauna, gates and/or a ventilation system for fresh air.

Both a sauna and the ventilation system deliver constant power only if they are controlled accordingly. This task is performed in a sauna. You can either buy a control unit to match the sauna – manufacturers often offer suitable controls for their stoves – or these are already integrated into the heater. It is also possible to retrofit controls so that you can also modernize older saunas or saunas on request.

You have decided on a sauna. Some people enjoy the advantages of a modern electric stove, including the option of a sauna at best. It allows you to regulate the temperature and humidity in your sauna conveniently and comfortably while others prefer the classic wood stove sauna because it is supposed to be the only sauna to emerge 

Building your sauna: 

There's an automated sauna which modern control units have a timer function, with which you can start the sauna at the time you have pre-programme. An automatic sauna brings you the possibility to control parameters such as temperature and humidity, as well as extras such as light and sound.

You need to decide if your sauna will be indoor or outdoor.

Indoor saunas are typically built directly into your home’s infrastructure, often placed by home gyms, basements, luxury hotels or spas (if you’re lucky enough to own one). They are often designed to provide a seamless passage from any room in your house into a sauna.

Outdoor saunas are usually freestanding structures that are built in backyards, often near a pool or lake. 

An outdoor sauna requires a separate structure, either newly built or repurposed. An old shed might make a great spot for a sauna, but it will likely need to be wired for electricity (depending on the sauna type). Otherwise, a sauna can be built on a deck, on grade, on a concrete slab, or almost anywhere else that’ level and flat.

Cost of sauna : 

For an indoor sauna the cost may be around $3,000 to $10,00. It greatly depends on the materials and modern facilities used

For the outdoor, you may spend between $3,000 and $6,000, depending on the size of your sauna and the wood material of your choice.

Advantages of Sauna

-You can regulate the lighting with a sauna: Depending on your mood, you can create the right atmosphere in the sauna.

-Temperature and humidity are the parameters of the sauna that can be controlled or regulated. The heating and ventilation times can also be controlled, including the corresponding pre- and post-runs.

-A preheating time brings you various advantages: You can preheat the sauna to a comfortable temperature before going directly to the warm sauna to escape the stress of everyday life.

-Some models already offer the possibility of playing music in the sauna, which contributes to the feel-good atmosphere.

The main sensors used in sauna are capillary tube sensors and electronic sensors.

Emergency stop with electronic safety sensor:

They measure the sauna at the installation location more precisely. The recommended installation location is the hottest point in the sauna, e.g. above the sauna on the ceiling, where the room temperature depends on how the airflow in the sauna proceeds. If the temperature exceeds 139 degrees Celsius, the sauna automatically switches off. Due to system-induced measurement inaccuracy, electronic temperature sensors are increasingly being used instead of capillary tube sensors. 

Emergency shutdown with capillary tube sensor as safety sensor:

With a capillary tube sensor, for instance, here's how the emergency shutdown works: The capillary tube sensor estimates the temperature on the wall or ceiling in the sauna using a special liquid in a thin, flexible sensor tube. If the temperature rises above 139 degrees, the liquid expands during heating and presses on a switch that separates the electric circuit so that the electric sauna heater working in this example is without electricity. If you want to use the sauna again, you must first reactivate the control manually. The disadvantage of this automatic switch-off: The measuring method by capillary tube sensor is considered inaccurate.

Evolution of Sauna:

Simple saunas only have an on/off switch for operation and/or a rotary control for setting various power levels of the sauna.

Commonly, the sauna is designed digitally: A digital display illustrates the functions and is, at best, simple and intuitive. Multifunctional LCDs (Liquid Crystal Display) and touch screens provide even greater ease of use: The display has an optical sensor to control the sauna by touching the symbols and lettering.

Some saunas now come with remote control. The sauna activates via these. You can do this, for example, with separate wireless remote controls (WLAN/radio connections) and/or unique software/apps for mobile phones.

Two-temperature sensor system for even more safety and security;

Modern sauna work with a second temperature sensor in the sauna, it detects the temperature near the seat and controls the room temperature as long as the safety sensor on the ceiling does not contradict it because the temperature range is not critical. This second sensor is also called a bank sensor after its installation location. The dual sensor control system provides more accurate readings as it considers the temperature stratification and air circulation resulting from ventilation

What to consider when building a sauna:

Wall insulation should be fiberglass batt

A foil-faced vapor barrier should be used over the insulation, and any seams should overlap by at least 4 inch

Softwoods like cedar, poplar, and hemlock will swell and contract without cracking. Cedar is the most desirable, as it’s antimicrobial and smells and looks great, but it’s expensive. In a pinch, rough pine will also work, though it won’t last as lon

Glass elements such as doors and light fixtures must be tempered to prevent cracking. And any electrical boxes or devices should be rated for high-humidity area

Materials Matter:

Saunas produce high temperatures and moisture levels, so the materials used matter:

Heater Type:

There are three heater types to choose from electric, gas, and wood. Electric and gas are both efficient and heat quickly, and they will typically require an electrician or plumber’s expertise. Wood may be a better option for building an off-grid sauna, though wood-fueled saunas take longer to heat, and the temperature is harder to control.

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 Steps in building sauna:

1. Decide the Location

Decide whether the sauna will be indoors or outdoors and prepare the location. 

Read about waterproof audio transducer that could be used in the sauna

2. Install the Electrical

3. Insulate the Walls and Ceiling

4. Install the Vapor Barrier

5. Install the Paneling

Note: Be sure to maintain a roughly ¼ -to ⅜-inch gap around the perimeter of the ceiling and each wall. This space will allow for the expansion and contraction that naturally occurs in a sauna. You can cover the gaps with small strips of paneling cut on a table saw.

6. Build the Bench

7. Install the Heater and Light Fixtures

8. Test the Sauna

It is important to only start the sauna under safe operating conditions (keyword: fire protection) while you are not yet present. It includes, for example, ensuring the sauna is closed and that nothing on the sauna could catch fire. Note that this should be seen as a precautionary measure, as some control units technically exclude the operational readiness of such risks from the outset.

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